Alcazaba

Visits to the Alcazaba

[1]马拉加的阿尔卡萨瓦是西班牙保留的最重要的防御工事之一。在进行游览时,我们应注意到我们将穿过两个有围墙的区域[1]和入口处的一些防御工事,它们一起构成了这一建筑群。首先,我们从外部区域开始参观,其特点是保留了建筑第一阶段的一些元素,特别是在北边围墙处,可以看到矩形和略微突出的塔楼,类似于典型的哈里发堡垒。东部和南部围墙处有正方形且略突出的塔,其中一些属于纳萨利时期重建的空心塔。

上部区域保留了具有相同特征的哈里发风格塔楼,在十四世纪对“敬意塔”、(它的前身是建于11世纪的一座小塔楼),靠近大清真寺的塔楼、拱门处和其他一些不太重要的塔楼进行了加固。

但除了两个内部区域外,整个防御系统更加复杂,因为为了能够在进入下部区域之前,从城市进入堡垒,必须一些通过“入口防御工事”,被称作Balbás (巴尔巴斯)塔,这些城墙和城门一起共同组成了抵御敌人武力进入防御区内的第一道屏障。

 

[1]本文中的信息摘自凡尼·得·卡兰萨·塞尔(Fanny de CARRANZA SELL)的著作《马拉加的阿尔卡萨瓦》, Domus Aurea系列, Esirtu出版社马拉加2010年出版。

它们是在格拉纳达国王巴迪斯执行时进行伟大改革期间建成的,当时他在1057年将马拉加吞并到其泰法国内。

当游客接近堡垒开始参观时,第一件引起其注意的便是塔楼,它是从堡垒进入城市的一座高塔,位于海关广场,这是一座阿尔巴拉那式防御塔[2],也就是说,该塔楼与城墙的主要通道分开,通过城墙顶上一条起到防御支线作用的通道与主要通道连接,它从各个角度控制进入防御工事的通道。在阿拉伯时期,这座阿尔巴拉那塔也穿过了海边的城市。它是具有这些特征的塔中唯一拥有防御区域的,并且其一半以上的部分被恢复重建,在它的四角我们能够欣赏到来自罗马大剧院的巨型方石。在其内部,有三个40年代建造的小型平台。

爬上一些台阶后,我们将到达塑有胡安·腾博瑞·阿尔巴雷斯(Juan Temboury Álvarez)半身像的露台,胡安先生毕生致力于该古迹的重建工作。

在右侧,在城墙顶通道通往阿尔巴拉那塔的城墙墙面上,有从城市另一端运来的十八世纪的大理石制墙面喷泉,同时还有两个相同材料制成的盾牌,以在这一空间中创建一和谐朴素的整体。1940年这里被要求不再新建建筑,人们在这里铺设了雕有图案、可重复利用的石板。一鹅卵石楼梯将我们带到了接待大楼,左边是通往罗马剧院的道路。这一创新空间由建筑师伊萨贝尔·卡马拉·格萨拉(Isabel Cámara Guezala)和拉斐尔·马丁·德尔加多(Rafael Martín Delgado)设计,建于90年代,建在旧时酋长家的遗迹之上。这是一幢轻质建筑,它通过玻璃墙和原有的墙壁隔开,使游客们能够欣赏到它们。在其内部有一组纪念碑模型。

离开接待大楼,游客们将返回到石砌的开放空间,并通过15世纪的原始大门进入古迹。门由两块厚实的木板制成,上面覆盖着铁板条,并用相同材料的大钉子固定。穿过它我们将来到第一个重建的拱门。我们在被莱奥波尔多·托莱斯·巴尔巴斯(Leopoldo TorresBalbás)称为“入口防御工事”处,从一开始我们就会欣赏到其独特的特征:它是一条由大小塔楼墙壁紧密相连形成的道路,带有顶部通道和众多防御门。在右边,我们可以看到烤炉塔。它因内部的小房间而得名,由一砖砌圆顶覆盖。

我们现在在斜坡上的第一个走廊上。从这里我们可以看到整个堡垒建筑的另一个特征,即其适应整座山的自然结构,不寻求对称性或规律性,而是适应脚下岩石的形状,很多情况下塔的建造都没有打任何类型的地基。

从城墙右面可以看到它外侧面在建筑阶段的不同系统,首先是底部的岩石,在此之上是覆盖了不规则石头的石砌墙,这些石头都是中等大小,材质各不相同,大致上都是一面经过打凿,通过一些砖块进行了一些规划,在石砌城墙上边有一没有敷面的石砌空间,通过它可以看到城墙内部,这部分城墙为土坯墙,混有石灰灰泥,再往上是重新敷面或者规则的石砌城墙,也就是说,由石头和砖砌连续铺成,它们都是现代重建的产物。整个围墙区都以上部的城垛为结束。

这一段和接下来的一段,即从拱顶门到柱子的这一部分,是经过修改最多的部分,一座拱门打断了我们的去路,一直通向一小庭院,该庭院的主要部分是一巨石柱,由市议会专门为Fernando Guerrero-Strachan建造, 从1937年到1941年的负责重建工作的建筑师。左手边的塔就是众所周知的Temboury塔,几乎完全经过重建。右边我们可以看到一座有圆形拱门的巨大的塔,是一扇砖砌拱门。这一防御系统是整个工事中最有趣的部分。塔楼建于11世纪,大门的通道是通过一系列的拱门组成,第一个砖制半圆形拱门于16世纪翻新,第二个是为了拱顶造型而建造的结构性拱门,它的形状是马蹄形,同最尽头方型、建造在重复利用石制基座的拱门同为十一世纪建造。接下来,我们可以看到另一个11世纪由石头和砖块建成的马蹄形拱门,在塔楼的出口处留了一个拱形空间,其末端位于重复利用的罗马柱的大型柱身上。

然后围墙围起来的一条道路再次将我们引向另一扇门,在左侧我们可以看到一长段大理石楼梯,它可能重复使用了中世纪时期的材料,在重修工程中被留在原地。

柱门由三个拱门组成,入口拱门用砖块砌成,柱身和科林斯式柱头使用重复利用的白色大理石。另一个内部马蹄形拱门由壁柱支撑,出口处的立柱极具美感 :在门楣下的马蹄形拱门使用石头和砖块交替建造而成,使用双色染印法,模仿了哈里发时期拱门特点,例如科尔多瓦清真寺。墙壁的砖石使拱门有了很大的可塑性。这扇门是直接通道,在其右侧,一直向上可以直接到达阿尔巴拉那塔的顶部。

基督之坡从平地处开始延伸,在其半高处有一塔楼,开启了另一扇带直接入口的门,这扇门没有经过重建,只剩下贴着塔楼的基座。

基督之塔(La Torre del Cristo)内部包括第二扇圆形拱门,这是在纳萨利时期进行重建的泰法建筑。入口处的拱门外部由砖砌成,最重要的就是拱顶石,上面刻着一把钥匙图案,如格拉纳达阿尔罕布拉宫的正义之门(Puerta de la Justicia)一样。入口拱门上部是两块石柱,是防御性飞堡残留的部分。门被拱形拱顶覆盖着,由一系列拱门组成。我们首先遇到入口处的拱门,它是一个由炮筒拱顶覆盖的小空间,用来过渡到内部结构性拱门,它支撑着通道和出口处的两个马蹄形拱顶,最后是塔楼出口的拱门。砖质中央圆拱形穹顶保存了它之前所有的装饰遗存,涂有赭石涂层。“基督之门”这个名字来自门里面的一个祭坛,祭坛壁龛里面有一个基督像,现在仍然能够看见,因此这里从17世纪开始成为了过路人们的一个礼拜堂。

 

[2] 应该设有一个标志,或让游客以某种方式看到平面图,以便对外部和上部区域进行很好地区分。

[3] 包括照片。

基督之门是进入内部区域的入口通道,这一广阔的区域整个环绕着包含了宫殿的上部区域

我们从南面开始攀登,在右侧城墙顶部通道穿过基督之塔(La Torre del Cristo)的中间部分处,我们可以看到很多塔楼,所有的塔楼都是经过重建的,在左侧,是一个几乎野生的斜坡。从第二个,也是最高的瞭望塔望去,我们可以欣赏到之前整个下部防御区的景色,向里我们可以看到阿本赛拉赫(Abencerraje)营救塔,塔门直接通向克拉查。

克拉查沿山峰一直上升,直到吉布法拉罗城堡处,从这里可以欣赏到整个锯齿形建筑,避免了建造阿尔巴拉纳塔的需要。克拉查由城堡顶部两道平行墙壁之间的通道组成,这是一条受到保护的道路,是连接阿尔卡萨瓦堡垒宫殿与城堡的唯一通道。这条通道唯一的门十分宏伟,它通向克拉查,当抵达城堡时,可以升起城门形成一座瓮城。

从这一瞭望塔我们可以看到上部区域南部极其精美的景色,无数个小塔楼间离得很近,在拐角处是宏伟的敬意塔遗迹。这座塔楼始建于泰发时期,在东面有一个大型的砖质拱门,是一个独立通道,从麦地那一直通向最初的阿尔卡萨瓦内部。这座塔楼的下半部分全都被填实,并且覆盖有涂层,以增加其厚度。在恢复重建时,更偏好于尊重原有的废墟,因此人们仅仅加固它们,保留其原有的浪漫状态,以唤起人对过往回忆。

在堡垒的北部,一扇栅们挡住了我们的去路,一旦穿过这一大门,我们就可以看见一深水井,这是一个有40多米深的大型水井,在山上的岩石中向下挖掘至自然水源,它可以为防御工事供水。 还有一筒车可用于取水。

环绕着整个防御区的开阔空间,在视野范围内一览无余,它适应了山丘不规则的六面体形状,由上部围墙和那些一直延伸到“新世界”(Mundo Nuevo)大街,和终于"射击之塔“(Torre del Tiro) 处的城墙紧紧围绕。

射击之塔,也没有经过重建,如今它是一个巨大的实心立方体。一城墙墙面从这座塔楼开始一直向下延伸到环城城墙处。

防御区下部的内部空间逐渐变窄,在其北面是地牢的出入口。它们采用相同的筒仓系统建造,像一个大型倒置漏斗,这使得人们无法攀爬,而且两个口都很窄。山里这片区域的洞穴非常潮湿,所以呆在里面一定很难受。

和防御区内的其他空间相比,这一空间相对比较狭窄,从它小的塔楼望出去,视角非常漂亮,从防御区上部外表面的栅门探出头去,我们可以看得非常清楚,这扇门截住了格拉纳达房间门旁边的通道。从这个点开始,我们再次从基督之门开始我们朝另一个方向的游览,因为目前游客们必须从瞭望台返回到基督之塔。

我们再次来到了基督之门的出口,我们对面这一经过挖掘的空间是一个地窖或谷仓,它的出口位于地面上的罗马花环池。

穿过拱门之后,我们来到如今完全园林化的一处开阔空间,它拥有一座美丽的西班牙 - 阿拉伯式花园,被称为武器广场。花园由建筑师费尔南多·格莱勒·斯特拉坎·罗萨多(Fernando Guerrero-Strachan Rosado)设计。在修复广场时,人们发现了两个基督徒墓葬遗址,这些墓葬属于圣路易斯教区,托洛萨主教,即8月19日天主教双王进入城市当天的守护神。

广场上最引人注目的是其丰富的装饰,由简单的材料,石头和砖块结合的几何设计,中央区域凹陷,作为十字形花园,中间设计了水槽,将水从宫殿的上部引到花园中的喷泉处,喷泉被四个低矮的篱笆围绕。在离开广场之前,可以从城墙下部的一个小门探出头去看看,在其西面的左侧部分,我们将可以看到整个入口防御工事三个不同层次的另一番全景,和一直到阿尔巴拉纳塔的下部区域以及城市入口的景色。

在武器广场,我们可以看到另一座喷泉,它位于两个狭窄的楼梯中间,这些楼梯克服了庭院内部到格拉纳达房间门之间的高差,在花园设计时期被建造而成。这是一座带有带水槽的壁式喷泉,其材质与之前相同,采用了红色大理石,是在整个建筑于90年代的最后一次修复工作中被安置在这里的。

从武器广场可以欣赏到所有阿尔卡萨瓦城墙顶上的通道,绵延不断。沿着它可以进入和离开不同的塔楼,顺着城墙升降,这样可以从最高处掌控一切。城墙顶上的通道还穿过了基督之塔,房间位于右边。城墙顶上的通道也被称为环绕小道,在与上部区域连接的唯一点上,这些通道变得很窄,新式栅门的拱门所连接的通道和塔楼内部尽头的唯一小道相连接,从这里进入到上方区域。

一登上您右侧的楼梯或斜坡,另一座小斜坡可以给我们提供一个极好的视角来观看格拉纳达屋门,除了这个众所周知的名字,自古以来,它也被称为迪内尔之门(Puerta del Tinel)或拱门(Los Arcos)。这座大型塔楼在1854年几乎完全被摧毁,但是根据1839年的复刻本得以重建。它是一个可直接进入的双通道大门,也就是说,最前面是第一个门,然后是一个小的过道,之后城墙将通道隔开,形成一个转弯,通向外部。这是一个高效防御系统,因为如果第一层大门被冲破,防守者还可以通过从上部区域投掷不同的材料来阻止敌人进入,将小通道变成一个真正的捕鼠器。塔楼的修复是建筑师费尔南多·格雷罗 - 斯特拉坎(Fernando Guerrero-Strachan)的作品,于1938年完工,并在其内部空间中建造了用作展示修复陶瓷件的房间。

这一坚固的塔楼从西面对上部区域进行保护,这一区域位于山峰的最高处,以其细长的形状完美地适应了山地地形,而敬意塔在东端对其进行保护,这样在两者之间构成了一个完全封闭的空间,由众多很小的塔紧紧围住,而宫廷区和居民区或军事区便位于其中。该上部区域可能是整个堡垒中最古老的区域,也是由于长期使用而进行了最多改造的区域, 以便实现其作为市政府所在地的行政及居住功能。

道路迫使我们转了个弯之后,我们可以看到一个带有喷泉的庭院,一个狭窄而陡峭的楼梯,该楼梯解决了它同上部空间之间的高差问题,这一上部空间位于中央地窖旁边,被费尔南多·格雷罗 - 斯特拉坎(Fernando Guerrero-Strachan)设计为一露台式花园。在这个地方重新挖掘的这一地窖是按照它的地势特点来进行开凿的,因此多年来它也被称为地牢庭院。这个花园作为宫殿大厅的前厅。

首先,在比地窖区稍微高一点的地方又有一个喷泉。当时的想法是要通过排水渠把顶部的水逐渐从一个喷泉引入到另一个喷泉和地面上的各个水渠里,以给花园带来丝丝清爽和潺潺地流水声,将这一空间划分及调整为一具有西班牙花园穆斯林设计风格的花园,将丰富多彩的石头,砖块,植被和水巧妙融合在这一几何排列的空间内,增加了一些隐蔽的感觉。

这个上层花园,就像整个区域内的其他建筑部分一样,被城墙顶上的通道所包围,从这通道上你可以看到整个城市的美景,包括罗马剧院,在北部中心区的大部分,以及南部的所有小海湾。

宫殿或者更确切地说两个仍存的宫殿,是完全不同的。首先,我们经过一个铺满鹅卵石的空间,即喷泉庭院,之前它是泰法宫的中央庭院,这一中央庭院由北部两个亭子和南部的该庭院组成,其中只有南部的庭院被保存了下来。

泰法皇宫的南门廊有一个房间,可以从马尔多纳多塔(Torre Maldonado)旁边的大门穿过拱门进入,通往门廊的房间里有一个三层马蹄形门拱,是根据哈里发时期阿尔扎哈拉古城帕拉提那市的富贵大厅(Salón Rico)的模型建造,经典的红白相间的门拱,伴有石膏花叶雕刻装饰,拱门的内部也有装饰。柱子很细,没有底座,是用圆柱形的木头制成,上面覆盖着石膏,柱头是花岗岩,上部是用红色石头雕刻的拱顶花边。

从喷泉庭院可以看到纳萨利式的门廊,通往大厅内部,由三个拱门组成,中间的拱门最大。门廊在十三至十四世纪进行了翻新,但十一世纪时已经存在了,人们认为石柱是在哈里发时期的柱子基础上建造的,因此应该只是重建。门廊由三个扇形拱门和两个支撑的石柱组成,其中一个柱头呈四边形,并且雕刻着非常僵硬的植物图案,与阿尔罕布拉宫的柱子非常相似。拱顶花边上是红底白字,是纳萨利时期古兰经卷轴上的文字,上面写着“除了上帝之外没有胜利者”。

泰法皇宫还有另一个非常有趣的元素,就是右侧的波浪形拱门凉亭(Pabellón de Arcos Lobulados。凉亭是装饰性的,也就是说,拱门不是结构性用途,其目的应该是为宫殿的这个区域带来更多的政治象征含义,或者是为了政府工作需要,再次模仿宏伟的哈里发艺术,但是使用的是泰法时期品质较次的材料。它们是自十一世纪中期的建筑(1026年至1057年之间),其装饰模仿了科尔多瓦哈里发统治时期的风格。

一穿过大厅或通过城墙顶上的原始通道一进来,我们就会到达城市的花园露台,露台右侧是马尔多纳多塔(Torre de Maldonado)。这座壮观的塔楼属于防御区建筑,并在阿里莫哈德时期进行了改造,当时它配备了两个美丽的大理石柱,上面写着《可兰经》经词,还有进入塔楼的三重拱廊,赋予了它象征意义。从塔楼的西窗或城墙顶上的通道可以观察到一座巨大的塔楼,可以清楚的看到泰法时期的基地和内部底座,以及后来的纳萨利时期的砖石涂层,还有直接在岩石上修葺的建筑。

沿着与南侧门廊相同的走廊,通过一个美丽的封闭式马蹄形砖石拱门可以进入泰法宫殿大厅,从这可以通往另一个壮观的房间,十六世纪大厅(Sala del siglo XVI)或穆德哈尔房间(Armadura Mudéjar,它就在原来的地点。这个大厅的顶架是不规则四边形,四边汇聚在中心的八角形结构,用钟乳式石膏浮雕装饰,周围是四个更小的钟乳式石膏浮雕,在它们周围则是八颗星星的图案。为了组装顶架的四边,使用了屋顶的“平行脊”结构,它们是由两个平行的横梁组成。在这个顶架的下半部分放置了两个装饰带,上面是三角形,下面有抽象的植物形状,水滴和半圆形,在角落处是雕刻的托座。这个房间由穆德哈尔建筑师改建,窗户需要能够打开。

重新回到喷泉花园的中心,可以进入由两个庭院组成的纳萨利皇宫。目前的通道是恢复重建时期的产物,因为它必须具有一个弯曲的通道。

纳萨利皇宫区域包含了极少的原始元素,而是以历史主义的方式对所有空间进行了重建,选择以格拉纳达宫殿高地为基础,建有屋顶,在某些情况下重新使用了建筑古迹内的其他空间,通过逐渐开采出来的碎片重现了装饰元素,但并没有严格恢复其位置。两个有凉亭的庭院在较短的南北两端相对而立,伴有三个拱门的门廊,但无法确定它们是由圆柱还是方柱支撑,无法确定卧室的设置,房间总高度和或屋顶的类型。配有泰法宫殿样式的门和壁龛。

橘子树庭院(Patio de los Naranjos围绕着两个蓄水池,那里有原始的设计痕迹,凉亭顶部有筒形穹顶,由赫尔姆内的·兰兹(Hermenegildo Lanz)绘制,柱子再现了格拉纳达的纳萨利宫殿。

第二个庭院是蓄水池庭院(Patio de la Alberca)或爱神木庭院(Patio del Arrayán,与中央大型蓄水池相连,水面就像是建筑的倒影,其中两个较大的侧面有树篱包围。在凉亭的北端有一个瞭望塔,因为发现了遗迹和楼梯。南门门廊由从纪念碑本身开采来的木制屋顶覆盖。这座宫殿的北墙目前由几个展厅所占据。我们可以一边从容欣赏于2003年开幕的具有教学意义的永久性展览,一边游览纳萨利皇宫。

从宫殿出来后,我们还可以参观另一个地方,入口就位于泰法宫殿的大厅旁。这间位于橘子树庭院(Patio de los Naranjos)南部的大厅,作为使用通往吉兰·索特洛街(Calle Guillén Sotelo)电梯进入景点的通道和入口,该街道被指定为游客进出的空间。 它将阿尔卡萨瓦和吉布拉法罗城堡的标志性建筑群与当代的阿尔卡萨瓦进行比较,比如格拉纳达阿尔罕布拉宫的阿尔卡萨瓦和阿尔梅里亚的阿尔卡萨瓦。

Exhibition

Techniques and Uses of Ceramics in 11th to 14th Century Muslim Malaga 

[1] The exhibition that is hosted in the Halls of the Nasrid Palace is dedicated to the ceramics of the Muslim era. Restored pieces from the remains found in the Alcazaba have been included, in addition to other pieces found in excavations in the urban areas of the city. This permanent exhibition in collaboration with the National Archaeological Museum has been designed with an eminently educational focus.

Unit 1 occupies the first square Hall next to the northern portico of the Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard of the Oranges). It is dedicated to highlighting the importance of the collection of ceramic fragments from archaeological excavations and presents how the study was carried out and how the pieces were restored. These materials of very humble appearance provide a lot of information about the life of the former owners, as well as about trade, manufacturing, etc., and are essential for dating sites.

Unit 2 is located in the hall with the domical vault that was painted by Hermenegildo Lanz and is inspired by the Alhambra’s Sala de la Barca (Hall of the Boat). Here the wide variety of forms and the diversity of functions of ceramics are on display. Four display cabinets show containers for food preparation, for cooking, for holding and serving liquids, for transporting and storing, for consuming food, for heating food and the room, for lighting, for games, for industry, etc. Each type is represented by an object and accompanied by panels with an explanation and a drawing.

At the back of the room, next to a beautiful original piece of latticework found in the Alcazaba, there are two panels, one with the names of the parts of ceramics comparing them with the human body. The other explains the multiple re-uses that a ceramic object can have.

Entering the Patio de los Naranjos, on the left a room opens with an alcove at one end. Here in the wall can be seen some remains of arches with voussoirs adorned with arabesque decoration that were found during excavations in the area, although not in its structure. Like the whole Nasrid Palace, the very ornate ceiling is the product of the restoration carried out in the 1940s. In this room several panels present Unit 3, showing the layout of a Muslim pottery workshop and the location of some of the many that existed in the city. Archaeological excavations have made it possible to verify the persistence of pottery workshops in the same place over a long historical period, especially in the area of Ollerías, where the toponym has survived.

Since making pottery was considered “harmful and dangerous”, the pottery workshops stood outside the walls of the Madina, and around them the pottery neighbourhood grew up, especially in the area of El Ejido that had abundant clays. Here most of the Muslim “ollerías" (potteries) were set up on the street that still carries the name, and in its vicinity kilns have been found dating from the 9th to the 14th century, with the Christian workshops established over them.

On reaching the palace’s second courtyard, the Patio de la Alberca (Courtyard of the Pool) or Patio del Arrayán (Myrtle Courtyard) and its large hall, open to the north, we find part of Unit 4 dedicated to the technical process involved in manufacturing a ceramic object. In the first place, a display case and a panel show how objects can be made through modelling, throwing and moulding, with drawings and original objects that show us the differences. Opposite this, in a room that is almost closed and which has an original pavement of large slabs of stone, we find the recreation of a working kiln. In front of the hall is a panel with original photos of the excavations of kilns in the city, showing their parts and how they operate. It is estimated that the average life of a kiln was 60 years and the maximum utilisation of the kiln’s capacity was fundamental to the performance of the pottery workshop, since the most expensive aspect was the firing.

Next, in the rooms at the long end of the courtyard, which border the house rebuilt as the Restoration Workshop, you can see how objects were finished and decorated. This varied according to the intended use, but even the most simple and humble pieces, destined for everyday use, showed a great appreciation of beauty. Explanatory panels and original restored pieces illustrate all the decorative techniques. In the simplest cases, the finish of the piece might consist of an exterior paint, a design stamped on the fresh clay, dipping or a simple glass layer intended either to waterproof the piece or give it a shiny finish. When it came to luxury pieces, the potters of Malaga were true masters and the Alcazaba has provided, through excavations, a very important collection of ceramics from the 11th to the 15th centuries, with spectacular pieces in green and manganese, using the cuerda seca (dry rope) technique, and in golden earthenware. These include pieces of international renown, such as the piece known as the Ataifor de la Nave, which is shown as an archaeological reproduction and a modern interpretation. This is complemented by another panel dedicated to decorative motifs, and although there were not many, they had an infinite number of combinations.

Following the thread of the exhibition, once finished, the ceramic piece went on to be sold. Unit 5 recreates a souk in the room at the end, which is an enclosed room with an important presence of original Arab walls in which you can appreciate the double brickwork, and in the corners the large ashlars, characteristic of the Taifa period, and next to this the Nasrid masonry. Before accessing the room that hosts the recreation of the souk, a panel illustrates the different types of trading that existed and the differences between a souk, an alhóndiga (corn exchange) and an alcaicería (silk market), as well as how much importance the zabazoque (government representative) gave to the souk. This political figure had economic and policing powers, and could deal with any type of fraud that might occur in the manufacture of ceramic objects. This is illustrated by a couple of articles in the Libro del Buen Gobierno del Zoco (Book of Good Governance of the Souk) by Ibn al Saqati, written in the 13th century. The pieces on display in the reproduction souk are modern pieces inspired by the original forms of common ceramics found in the Alcazaba itself.

We move now to the southern pavilion of the Patio de la Alberca, which is covered by a wooden ceiling recovered from the military pavilions that occupied the lower area in the Modern Age. The room contains Unit 6, which aims to give an idea of the many contexts in which ceramic objects were used in everyday life. On the floor can be seen a fragment of the original Nasrid pavement found in the Alcazaba, made up of small two-colour pieces, and on the wall there is another fragment of a beautiful pavement found in urban excavations in the city. Two display cases show the different uses of ceramics, both domestic and industrial.

Among the domestic uses, it is worth highlighting the system for filtering water through jar stands and large ataifores (glazed bowls typical of al-Andalus); examples of industrial uses include one of the most beautiful pieces exhibited, the stamped wellhead, from the 12th century Almohad period. The wellhead is the visible part of a well that emerges from the well dug in the courtyard of a home. This was a place of great importance for domestic life, so it was very often beautifully decorated. In this piece the decoration is profuse, including text in Kufic script (“full health” repeated over and over). This also came from urban excavations and was restored in the Alcazaba’s Restoration Workshop. Other curious pieces include the funerary jar with “ears”, the individual tiles that formed the tiled areas, roofing tiles, potable water and drainage pipes, olambrillas (small square decorative pavement tiles), etc.

From this Hall there is a beautiful view of the courtyard and of its pool. The interior pools in Hispanic Muslim buildings played the role of mirrors in which the architecture was reflected, and this one reflects the tower that occupies the extreme end of the northern hall. The small jets of the little circular marble fountains along the sides of the pool provide a faint sound and a slight ripple as they fall on the still water of the pool. All this invites calmness and meditation.

In the Hall that gives onto the adjoining courtyard you can see some large containers. The expertise of the potters allowed the manufacture and firing of large pieces, both ornamental, such as the famous golden earthenware Alhambra Vases, as well as others intended to be used to store grain, clothing, oil, preserves, dried fruits, etc., and the pieces that surrounded wells. These large pieces were placed in half-buried pantries, protecting the products from moisture, heat, animals, etc., as was done in Andalusian cortijos (farmhouses) until not so many years ago. A piece of larger size is exhibited at the entrance to the monument by the lift from Calle Guillén Sotelo, because it was too large to be taken upstairs and displayed in the Hall.

Back in the Patio de los Naranjos, this time on its southern side, we leave the Hall and we go into the last of the exhibition rooms, which is Unit 7 and is entitled Pervivencias (Persistence). Here, using modern objects, the exhibition shows how those objects in daily use in our homes maintain the same form and function that they had a thousand years ago, expressing how deeply rooted these Arabic ceramics are in our culture. This is a selection that cannot be exhaustive, due to the great diversity that exists, and it aims only to serve as a reminder, since many objects now have only a decorative function. Examples include the botijo (drinking container) and piggy banks or moneyboxes.

After leaving the Palace there is another space that can be visited, whose access door is located next to the Gran Sala del Palacio Taifa (Grand Hall of the Taifa Palace). This room, in the southern part of the Patio de los Naranjos, serves as an entrance to the monument for visitors who make use of the lift leading to Calle Guillén Sotelo. Here, explanatory panels with abundant photos and drawings focus on comparing the monumental complex formed by the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro Castle with the other contemporary Moorish alcazabas, such as the Alcazaba of the Alhambra in Granada and the Alcazaba of Almería.

 

[1] The information presented in these texts was extracted from the book written by Fanny de CARRANZA SELL, Alcazaba de Málaga, Colección Domus Aurea, Ediciones Esirtu, Malaga, 2010.